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Food and Wine Pairing of the Week from Swirl Wines

Posted by bevo vino on 2007-05-09 02:33:26 (5127 views)

2005 Enzo Boglietti Dolcetto D'Alba Paired with Fusilli with Sun-Dried Tomato and Scallion Cream

Provided By: Swirl Sensational Wines

Tucked into the mountainous northwest corner of Italy, Piedmont borders Switzerland and France and sits snugly between the Alps and Apennines. In fact, the Italian word piemonte means "foot of the mountain." As a wine-producing region, Piedmont reaches rarely rivaled heights with Barolo and Barbaresco, two world-class wines made from Nebbiolo grape. Barolos are rich, rose-scented wines, robust and tannic, capable of (and often requiring) long aging. Unfortunately they are often prohibitively expensive. Barbaresco, made to be drunk earlier than Barolos, can be the more affordable choice. Other important red grapes of Piedmont are Barbera and Dolcetto, represented in the sub-appellations Asti and Alba. Barbera is very versatile with food, particularly grilled meats and tomato-based sauces. Dolcetto is a round, fruity wine best drunk young. The sweet sparkling white wine Asti is made here from Muscat grapes, as is the dry white Gavi, made from Cortese grapes.

The dynamic, young Enzo Boglietti is one of the new breed of Barolo producers who are electrifying the wine scene of Piedmont. Based in the town of La Morra--and with holdings in some of Barolo's greatest vineyards--Enzo took over his family's domaine in the early 1990's. He immediately went to work slashing yields in the vineyards and improving the winemaking and elevage in the cellar. The result has been a transformation no less dramatic than the one that occurred in the 1980's in the cellars of Scavino, Altare, Clerico, and Corino. In contrast to these producers, however, he takes a more moderate approach to some of the modern techniques of these new-wave wineries, including traditional maceration, and only short and partial aging in french barriques, with much of the elevage in older Slovanian Botte.

The Barolo appellation covers a number of towns, but some of the greatest Nebbiolo vineyards of all are on the steep, mostly south-facing slope of La Morra. Along this slope are famous names like Case Nere, Fossati, Cerequio, and Brunate. Most of Enzo's vineyard holdings are on this "Golden Slope," and it is their quality that has allowed him to progress so quickly.

From these vineyards, Enzo produces between 300 and 400 cases each of three crus: Case Nere, Fossati, and Brunate. He could produce a lot more from these vineyards if he wanted, and he could produce a straight Barolo as well. But instead he produces a super-Piedmont wine called "Buio." Made from 92% Nebbiolo from his Barolo vineyards, he adds 8% Barbera to contribute color, brighten the nose, and add fruit.

His Dolcetto and Barbera vineyards are also very well-situated, and he makes good use of older oak in combination with tank to create beautiful, concentrated, fruit-forward wines of exceptional quality for these varietals. Of particular interest is his Dolcetto "Tiglineri" made from 60+ year old vines.

Wine Maker's Notes: Very deep ruby red color, a very typical wine of the latest vintage, flowery perfume--full-bodied,round, fresh and slightly tannic in the mouth--a wine of a quite good longevity.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Apr. 2007, Antonio Galloni--87--Drink 2007-2009
Bogliettiís 2005 Dolcetto díAlba is a weighty effort that emphasizes richness in the fruit somewhat at the expense of the varietalís aromatic qualities. Although it offers good length and a small note of reduction that gives the wine an overall feel of rusticity. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2009.

Food and Wine Pairing:
Fusilli with Sun-Dried Tomato and Scallion Cream Paired with Enzo Boglietti Dolcetto D'Alba

A fruity red wine will be ideal with the rich sauce and the assertive, salty taste of the sun-dried tomatoes,and a slightly chilled bottle of dolcetto will fit the bill perfectly.
Serves 4.
Sun-dried tomatoes give intense flavor to this quick, no-cook sauce. Fusilli would also be a good shape to use here; the cream sauce will cling to its every curve.

  • 5 scallions, white and light-green parts only
  • 6 tablespoons chopped reconstituted sun-dried tomato halves (about 12 halves)
  • 1 cup light cream or half-and-half
  • 1 pound bow ties
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
  1. In a blender or food processor, puree the scallions and sun-dried tomatoes with 1/2 cup of the cream.
  2. In a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the bow ties until just done, about 15 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water.
  3. Drain the pasta and toss with the puree, the remaining 1/2 cup cream, 1/3 cup of the reserved pasta water, the salt, pepper, and parsley. If the sauce seems too thick, thin it by adding more of the reserved pasta water.
Variation: Bow Ties with Sun-Dried Tomato and Herb Cream An equal quantity of chopped fresh basil or chives or 2 tablespoons of tarragon would be a good alternative or addition to the parsley.

Reconstituting Sun-Dried Tomatoes: In a small pan, bring enough water to a boil to cover the dried tomatoes. Add the tomatoes, then remove from the heat and let steep in the hot water for about 5 minutes. Drain. You can also use drained oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes for this recipe. Since they're already soft, you don't have to reconstitute them.

Recipe by Quick From Scratch Pasta

Swirl Sensational Wines
3143 Ponce de Leon Street
New Orleans, LA 70119
(504) 304-0635


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